🔗 Share this article ‘Every Cook Should Study Here’: Humble Turkish Restaurant Ranks Fourth on Ranking of London’s Best Restaurants. When curating a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee familiar high-end venues. However, situated near the top among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a distant part of north London. An Shocking Recognition The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the owners completely shocked. “I’m completely shocked,” says a proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest shop securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list. The Appeal of Modesty The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has kept much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner. The Signature Creation: Tantuni In the end, it is focused on the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent quality. It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside. It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together. Beyond the Classic Tantuni Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”. For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste. Outranking the Titans Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations. Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure. The Ethos of Heart It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner. “In my view what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.” This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”. The Journey of Perseverance In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son. Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work. “My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects. A Accomplishment for the Community This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.